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How To Germinate Medical Marijuana Seeds

Tuesday, September 7th, 2010

If you have your medical marijuana card you really should look into being able to provideyourself with your own medication versus donating at local collectives. While there is a small learning curve that is needed for you to get your “green thumb” and actually produce decent medication, the cost savings and knowledge itself will allow you to remain self sufficient with medication for a lifetime.

When deciding to start growing your own medical marijuana medication you need to decide whether you want to grow from seed or clone. While there are plenty of patients in california, colorado and other states who prefer clones, you should realize that those clones or “cuts” as they are called have been in everyones garden already. If you are looking for medication that isn’t just the same ol’ same ol’, then growing from seed is the only way to go.

When choosing “medical marijuana seeds” to purchase you need to find a solid seed bank to purchase from. There are only a few trusted seed banks that currently ship to the u.s.a. and my favorite can be found at the bottom of this article for those looking to purchase medical marijuana seeds.

So You Decided To Get Seeds, Now What?

After you have decided on which seeds to get from our review site the next step is to start germinating the seeds. There are plenty of methods that medical marijuana growers use however the below method is one that has worked for many med patients up and down cali AND around the world for that matter.

Step One

Take a shot glass and fill it 3/4 with water and add a half a cap full of hydrogen peroxide (helps open up stubborn shells and improve germ rates) and then place your seeds in the water/hydrogen peroxide and tap the seeds so they go under the water a couple times. This makes sure they are moist on the entire shell.

Step Two

After leaving the seeds floating in the shot glass for 24 to 48 hours give them a tap and see if they sink to the bottom. If they sink to the bottom, it means that the seeds are ready for the next step. If they are still floating, give them a tap or two with your finger and let them soak until they too drop to the bottom.

Step Three

After the seeds have all sunk to the bottom of the shot glass they are ready for the next step. You can use a sealable plastic bag or a tupperware that is sealable to put the seeds in once you have prepped them which is explained next. I take a 1/4 piece of a paper towel and soak it so it is wet. I squeeze the excess water off and then place the seeds in a line in the center. Simply fold the papertowel over a few times and then place that either in a plastic bag OR tupperware.

Step Four

After you have your seeds wrapped in a papertowel and in either a sealed plastic bag or sealed tupperware container you want to make sure they get some heat. I accomplish this by placing the plastic bag/tupperware container on my cable box for 1-4 days. You can use a cable box, tv, v.c.r. or anything that gives off ABOVE room temp heat but not HOT temps. You are looking for something that can keep your beans warm and in a perfect germable environment.

Step Five

You will want to check daily on your seeds, make sure that the paper towel remains wet but not saturated. The seeds need moisture but cannot be saturated with water or mold issues could arise. After 24 hours some of the seeds will start growing their taproots. After a seed has grown a decent 1/4″ to 1/2″ taproot you can then place them in your medium.

The above germing method will allow you to keep a higher ratio of your medical marijuana seeds to germinate and go onto the veg and bloom stages. This germing method is far better than simply putting a seed in the soil and crossing your fingers.Try it out and see why so many medical marijuana growers use this method above most others.

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About the Author:
Looking for Seed Bank Reviews then check out our review site showcasing thousands of strains and featuring the Attitude Seed Bank.
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colorado mmj growers association

Phal Orchids – Essential Guidelines for Easily Growing Phalaenopsis Orchids

Tuesday, September 7th, 2010

If you’re new to orchid growing or are looking for an easy, minimal care orchid then look no further—the Phalaenopsis, or Phal orchid, might just be your new best friend. These stunning flowers have become very popular in homes around the world because of their ease to care for, stunning blooms, varied colors, elegant look, and wonderful fragrance. Even if you are an expert orchid grower, it’s worth having a Phal orchid around to add a touch of grace to your home.

 

Phalaenopsis orchids are also referred to as moth orchids because of their similar shape to a moth when they are in full bloom. Phal’s come in pink, white, purple, yellow and many are wonderfully striped. These really are jaw-dropping flowers, which makes it no surprise that they are so commonly seen incorporated into wedding ceremonies these days.

 

Phalaenopsis are a genus of orchids. There are over 60 species in the genus and a plethora of hybrid variations. They are one of the most cultivated orchids on the planet with new hybrids being bred regularly. They are epiphytes, meaning they are found attached to trees, rocks or other plants, using their structure for mechanical support.

 

When growing a Phal orchid at home, it’s important to emulate this. One of the best ways to do this is to use a bamboo stick, placed in the center of the orchid pot, and attach the stem to the bamboo with some wire ties. This will support your orchid and also allow the blooms to be beautifully presented.

 

I also like to use clear plastic pots during the growing period because it allows sunlight to reach the root structure. Sun light is very important to all orchids, but the right amount and intensity is critical for your Phal. Phal’s are low-light orchids so it’s best to place them in an East or South-East facing window, pulled back a bit from the window so that they get bright morning sun, but the light will lack the intensity of the later parts of the day.

 

If you decide to use artificial lights then fluorescents are a great choice. Just place the light about a foot to a foot and a half above the orchid on an angle. Give them 12 hours, or so, of sunlight, or whatever mimics the natural daylight of that time of year.

 

Temperature is also very important for Phalaenopsis orchids. Aim for a daytime temperature of no more than 85 F and nighttime lows of around 65 F.

 

A critical component for all Phal’s is their water intake. This need is met through two mediums: physically watering the plant and humidity. If you have a humidifier, aim to keep the humidity around 70%, although some Phalaenopsis species will like it higher.

If you don’t have a humidifier you can buy a humidity tray that will meet this need.

 

A word of caution here: Do not over water your Phal orchids. This is the single biggest mistake in orchid care. Plan on watering once every 7 to 10 days. During the high growth season you can increase this to once every 5-7 days. I also like to fertilize about every other time that I water. This helps give your plant a boost of necessary nutrients.

 

Having a Phalaenopsis orchid around is really an eye-pleaser at home or at work. If you follow these few simple guidelines then you’ll be on your way to seeing your orchids bloom beautifully and easily.

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About the Author:
Mark Alber is the owner of www.OrchidInformationHeadquarters.com. You can find more resources on Phal Orchids at his website.
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